Category: Hard Boiled

I got up to Santa Maria last Wednesday and Saturday, days 14 and 15 of my season epic on Hard Boiled. Wednesday was a disaster: 3 falls throwing for the crux crimp, not even a high point. And then there was Saturday. First, Chris redpoints it on his first go of the day. What an… Continue reading so close, and yet so far away

Last Saturday didn’t count. I went to Mr. Lee’s but a cramp in my back was so painful I couldn’t climb. I tried to warm up on Shores of Hell but it just got worse. Then it got bad. It got bad and stupid. Super aggravating. Oh well, at least I got to lay on… Continue reading my back is stupid

So, I finally hit the crux pinch on Hard Boiled. And for about 1/1000 of a second, it felt like redpoint time. Never in my life have I hit a hold that bad. My fucking fingers were, like, fucking folded under themselves or something. I can’t really remember, except to say that it was bad.… Continue reading day 13

I didn’t write last week about the prior weekend’s events on Hard Boiled. Because I fell. Again. 3 times. And each time I fell at the same spot – throwing to that right hand crimp at the crux. However, last weekend I hit the crimp twice. And then fell. Twice. Whatever, it’s progress. I still… Continue reading day 11 & 12

Rain shut us down at Mr. Lee’s, so we cranked it out at Owl Tor instead. Which reminds me, the Tor is rad. I got on Galla Galla Happy (13d), Better Than Life (13c), The Old Pro Skill (12d), and Chips Ahoy (12d). To my future self: before you get impressed with this list of… Continue reading Owl Tor is rad

Well, I fell three more times at the Hard Boiled crux. But elijah, aren’t you tired of falling at the same spot every week? Yes. There’s a small lip in the back of the left-hand pocket, way in there. Setting that two-finger pocket better could be key. I tried after falling on my third burn… Continue reading day 10