day 13

So, I finally hit the crux pinch on Hard Boiled. And for about 1/1000 of a second, it felt like redpoint time. Never in my life have I hit a hold that bad. My fucking fingers were, like, fucking folded under themselves or something. I can’t really remember, except to say that it was bad.… Continue reading day 13

day 11 & 12

I didn’t write last week about the prior weekend’s events on Hard Boiled. Because I fell. Again. 3 times. And each time I fell at the same spot – throwing to that right hand crimp at the crux. However, last weekend I hit the crimp twice. And then fell. Twice. Whatever, it’s progress. I still… Continue reading day 11 & 12

Owl Tor is rad

Rain shut us down at Mr. Lee’s, so we cranked it out at Owl Tor instead. Which reminds me, the Tor is rad. I got on Galla Galla Happy (13d), Better Than Life (13c), The Old Pro Skill (12d), and Chips Ahoy (12d). To my future self: before you get impressed with this list of… Continue reading Owl Tor is rad

day 10

Well, I fell three more times at the Hard Boiled crux. But elijah, aren’t you tired of falling at the same spot every week? Yes. There’s a small lip in the back of the left-hand pocket, way in there. Setting that two-finger pocket better could be key. I tried after falling on my third burn… Continue reading day 10