the week in training

My spring climbing season is going approximately as planned. I’m campusing decently, bouldering sufficiently and have managed to put in a few good days on Strictly. Saturday was my sixth day of the season at Owl Tor and my third day on this year’s redpoint route of focus, for which the campusing and bouldering is supposed to provide adequate power. I burned three attempts on the lower section of Strictly Ballroom and two from the ledge to the top, strategically splitting the route into two obvious sections. I’m still concerned with the difficulty of the mono to the crimp at the first bolt, although this day I made progress, hitting the crimp maybe three times. It’s going to take more than a few more hard days of work before I’m approaching legitimate redpoint burns. On a positive note, my timing has coincided perfectly with Lizard mating season. After making moves on a local lady, this guy dominated my shoe.

From Wednesday’s session at the Shed, 1-4-7 on the mediums:

The campus board at the Shed is built to standard specifications: rungs are spaced 22cm, 15-degrees overhanging. The left rungs are the only set to come from a manufacturer – Metolius mediums. The right two sets are my own creation and are considerably smaller.

And for some Thursday climbing action, Micah and I went to Upper Gibraltar to get on a couple of the most mediocre routes in town. This photo is of Micah leading A Route Runs Through It (5.10c) with his pack on to facilitate a quick exit in fading light.

it’ll be a cold day in Joshua Tree

Joshua Tree got groped by Jason, Marcela and me last weekend. Temps were a tad on the chilly side, around 40-ish, and the wind brought some ferociousness. Marcela’s tent got shredded the first night, but fortunately it snowed the next evening. My companions weren’t super psyched. I got on Desert Shield and a couple head pieces I want to lead but whose names I forgot. Desert Shield is great. I think I can redpoint that sucker pretty quick. It’s kinda crimpy but steep with long moves so a send should come together after a day or two, I would think.

Déjà vu

More falls on Atreyu. I got to fall 3 more times at the crux. And since Phil forgot to bring the battery for his drill, I didn’t do any work on the new route either. All in all I’d say it was a pretty productive day.

Micah, Andy and I went to Green Dome the next day (hence the photo). It was OK, blew Andy’s mind.

faces of death

We got some good photos at the Tor last Saturday, with some rad expressions. Andy’s looking like the Lord of the Forest.

Andy on Hell of the Upside Down Sinners (5.12b):

Me on the long move at the top of Atreyu (5.13b). I didn’t make it this time:

 

Micah topping out the Tor via Power of Eating (5.11d):

Halloween in Joshua Tree

IMG_1573How appropriate. Halloween and death slabs are a match made in Hell. Yeah, there’s plenty of trick-or-treating in Joshua Tree, stacks of routes to trick you in to running them out until you’re treated to a near death experience. It’s growing on me. I got on this 12d, La Cholla, and had seriously a bunch of fun. It’s a slab problem to a near vertical, maybe a touch more, face route. It’s well protected, got some awesome moves, and I think I’d like to project it. Not my typical fare, obviously, but an interesting climb no doubt.