hello, old friend

Back on Hard Boiled. That’s right, after 10 months, 1 attempt on my life, 3 pairs of climbing shoes and several dozen training days I am back projecting the most miserable piece of rock I have ever known. Once again, I am bidding for chains on Phil’s Santa Maria abomination, for whose creator I’m sure a special spot in Hell is reserved. Redpoint burns on Hard Boiled are so painful I have to trick myself to keep throwing at holds. Sometimes I imagine I’m on another route. Whatever, I threw myself at it on Saturday to walk away surprisingly not disappointed.

da numbers:

  1. Shores of Hell (5.11b) – redpoint
  2. Crocodile Hunter (5.12d) – just bolt-to-bolted up to the first break
  3. Hard Boiled (5.13b) – bolt-to-bolted
  4. Hard Boiled – 1 fall, throwing to the crux crimp
  5. Hard Boiled – 1 take, at the second clip (big right-hand side pull before underclings), then to the top
  6. Better Than Chips (5.12d) – 1 fall, mysteriously, at the throw
  7. Better Than Chips – redpoint
  8. Anchor Punch – redpoint


  1. Hard Boiled is a little bitch. She’s been sleeping while you’ve been training harder than you ever have. All those redpoint shut downs last season have gone to her head. I’m betting on Crankenstein domination.

  2. you reminded me of a rad quote:”Saigon… shit; I’m still only in Saigon… Every time I think I’m gonna wake up back in the jungle. When I was home after my first tour, it was worse. I’d wake up and there’d be nothing. I hardly said a word to my wife, until I said ‘yes’ to a divorce. When I was here, I wanted to be there; when I was there, all I could think of was getting back into the jungle. I’m here a week now… waiting for a mission… getting softer; every minute I stay in this room, I get weaker, and every minute Charlie squats in the bush, he gets stronger. Each time I looked around, the walls moved in a little tighter.”- Willard, Apocalypse Now…and the video.

  3. Rad.I had a day today that was “Tor like” (although all the routes were easiar than the Tor, albeit I was onsighting on little rest, so maybe it is about the same… or not). Makes me want to take it to the Tor. I onsighted 6 5.11’s and had another fall at the chains on the worst 11d piece of shit route I have ever been on (actually, it’s pretty rad, but, you know…)All this climbing over here is adding up to possibly worst case of Tuesday thinking on record. We’ll see.

  4. Yeah, we’re predicting how hard you’ll crank when you get back. Andy thinks you’re gonna make rocks bleed. He’s nervous. I just think it’s rad you’re in Greece thinking about the Tor. She’s such a bitch. We’ve got to tag team her next season. Routes are rad, huh? Something clicked for me this year with redpointing. Now I think: if I do everything right, hit all the holds in exactly the right sequence, move well, stay relaxed and go quickly; if my breathing is good, I’m in shape, feeling powerful and willing to push harder than the last time I thought all this, then maybe there’s a chance I’ll send. Then it feels like a lottery and that’s rad.

  5. Glad to hear at least Andy thinks I’m going to have some game. One things for sure, I might actually have some endurance for the first time in my life. My power is WAY down though. Haven’t been getting on anything hard enough…, but power is sort of my strong point so I figure that will come back super quick. If so, I may be clipping some chains back in SB. Started thinking about my Birthday Challenge…. You know Austrailian 28 translates to 5.13a….. I think that would be stout. Oh, and I am definitely going to be training for a 280 second (4:40) static apnea. I couldn’t agree more about redpointing. This trip has taught me loads about all the subtle aspects of climbing; the mental game, foot work, breathing etc. Rad.

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