first tick

Phil claims the first tick of the season. Antonio and/or Arthur had claimed first tick, I think, a couple months back but those statements could not be verified. I understand their frustration. Such a fortuitous symbol may foreshadow a fruitful season for one Phil. Phil on Tom’s Burly Shuffle 12c: Phil-vs-Burly-Shuffle_20140517_small Phil-vs-Burly-Shuffle_20140517_big Though not prone to political activism… Continue reading first tick

No and Then

Inspired by one of my generation’s iconic celluloid gems this post’s title is appropriate as I tried to parlay my send of Gala Gala Happy into Strictly Ballroom. But there has bees no and then. Strictly Ballroom has shut me the fugg down. My schedule for a redpoint on Strictly is now in the lifetime-ish range. Sadly, there’s just one problematic move in… Continue reading No and Then

because more difficult is more awesome

Keeping with this crankenstein.com theme I’m trying out a new method of video delivery – an inappropriately complex and compulsively robust technique that’s fully rad. Behold:   jwplayer(‘mediaplayer’).setup({ file: “rtmp://s1jaz2gmcjf1sh.cloudfront.net/cfx/st/mp4:00004-3”, width: “720”, height: “480” }); me on Better Than Life 8a+, Owl Tor, Santa Maria, California

the week in training

My spring climbing season is going approximately as planned. I’m campusing decently, bouldering sufficiently and have managed to put in a few good days on Strictly. Saturday was my sixth day of the season at Owl Tor and my third day on this year’s redpoint route of focus, for which the campusing and bouldering is… Continue reading the week in training