backing off

This Wednesday I went back to easy weight on the bench, about 60%. The session was really short, just light bech press with my feet up, going slow for two sets of 12, three sets of 20 dips and some cable push-downs. And my shoulder feels good.

Santa Maria: day 2

If you weigh 195 lbs and your name isn’t John Dunne, don’t get trashed the night before going climbing in Santa Maria. Hard Boiled, the most miserable 40 ft of rock ever touched by a Hilti, makes me want to find a new sport. And oddly, this overhanging pile of misery feels no better when… Continue reading Santa Maria: day 2

damn it

Shoulder felt a little tight yesterday. I did the same workout as last week but this time my friggin right shoulder was getting a little uncomfortable after two flat-bench press sets. Whatever – I finished the workout and I’ll probably go extra light for a couple weeks to be safe. In other news, I tried… Continue reading damn it

back to Hell

Saturday was our first day back to Santa Maria. Phil, Paul and I went to Mr. Lee’s and we all got on Hard Boiled. I passionately hate this route. My right hand is completely maimed from it. While enjoying the crux on my second go up this masterpiece I punctured a pad on my middle… Continue reading back to Hell

back in the game

My shoulder finally feels strong enough to get back in to heavy benching. I went through a full routine yesterday, one typical of the first session of a 12-week cycle, to feel how everything holds up. And stuff feels good. As usual, lifts on this first day are done with a manageable weight (~70% max.),… Continue reading back in the game


I’ve been climbing a long time and I always struggle with movement. Possibly because, as I evolve in the sport, the way I move inadvertantly changes. Nevertheless, my mind has to catch up. To visualize upcoming moves you must know what to expect from your body. I climb slow. Guys who climb slow think I… Continue reading movement