I changed things up a bit today. Rather than 5 sets of an exercise I did 3 and did 7 instead of 4 separate exercises in a comparable amount of time. Again, on the 2:00.
- bench press
- 1 x 12 @ 155 lbs on 2:00
- 1 x 12 @ 165 on 2:00
- 1 x 9 @ 165 on 2:00
- Massive failure, had to throw the weight in to the “emergency stops”, as I call them. Got to watch 165 lbs fly at my face though. Rad.
- incline bench press
- 2 x 10 @ 115 on 2:00
- 1 x 12 @ 115 on 2:00
- DB flys
- 3 x 12 @ 25 on 2:00
- Light weight, good stretch. I like finishing chest workouts with this exercise.
- behind-the-neck press
- 1 x 12 @ 65 on 2:00
- 1 x 12 @ 75 on 2:00
- 1 x 12 @ 65 on 2:00
- arms super set – standing overhead triceps extensions & standing biceps curls, both with french curl bar
- tri’s – 1 x 12 @ 65 lbs (assuming a 25 lb bar) @ 0:00
- bi’s – 1 x 12 @ 65 @ 1:00
- tri’s – 1 x 12 @ 65 @ 2:00
- bi’s – 1 x 12 @ 65 @ 3:00
- tri’s – 1 x 12 @ 55 @ 4:00
- bi’s – 1 x 12 @ 55 @ 5:00
- triceps cable press down w/ rope
- 1 x 12 @ 75 on 2:00
- 1 x 12 @ 80 on 2:00
- 1 x 12 @ 85 on 2:00
- incline seated DB curls
Finished up with some shoulder & chest stretches and my rotator cuff exercises.
Unbelievable. Climbers who squander their lives on earth go to a bad place when they die. They go to Santa Maria. The place is a piece of work. Total work of art. If you thought where you climbed this weekend was epic be glad you weren’t getting it on with the Tor in June. 103 degrees in the shade. IN THE SHADE. Amazing. Justin and Micah went with me. In that kind of heat a person’s skin pays a price. Justin tore what is maybe the biggest slice of skin I’ve ever seen from his pinky and left ring finger. All layers, nothin’ left but blood. Everything felt epic. I eeked out improvements on single No Skill and Hell of The Upside Down Sinner burns, falling on each once but in slightly better shape than last week, during my third and fourth laps of the day, respectively. By lap five I was cooked, could not will myself up Anchor Punch to save Halle Berry’s life. Justin is a rare pleasure to have at the Tor, introduced himself to climbing about 6 months ago and is making marked progress on Power of Eating upon every visit. Micah did my same routine, with a full value burn on No Skill that pushed back the inside of this monster boulderer’s route envelope. All said and done the day sucked.
Micah and I swam and climbed at UCSB the next day. This also sucked. Thinking the routes inside the UCSB Rec Cen would be cooler than the solar flares pounding Santa Barbara County crags was a mistake.
Note to the University: turn on the AC. Idiots.
Note to anyone contemplating a trip to the UCSB wall: don’t. It was a total epic. I’m not going to get myself started but I will say the staff is something else. In a word – unbearable.
- Power of Eating (5.11d) – redpoint
- Hell of the Upside Down Sinners (5.12a) – redpoint
- No Skill (5.12c) – Took once as soon as I left the jugs on Chips
- Hell of the Upside Down Sinners (5.12b) – 1 fall 2 moves after the last clip
- Anchor Punch (5.12a) – Like 37 falls. Here’s where I totally imploded then left.
I went swimming with Micah and Bridget today. It was, of course, rad. Got a late start, 1:00 PM, due in part to a late night, and it’s Sunday. If you don’t like chicks smoking you in the pool, don’t take 10 years off and don’t swim with Bridget. She’s fast. I did, however, swim a mile today. That was a goal. And I swam long course, the 50m UCSB pool. 100s long course kicked my ass. I was struggling through the 10 x 100, STRU-GLED. Then Micah and I did some breath hold work in the 17ft dive tank. To my pleasant surprise I worked my feeble lungs up to 65 second static holds. Micah had a couple 2 minute dives. On what was maybe his first real attempt at static apnea this is awesome.
Here’s the numbers:
- warm up
- 10 x 100 @ 3:00 free
- First 5 were hard, real hard. Breathing was labored, real labored. I was coming in between 1:40 and 1:50.
- Second 5 I used fins, shorty swim fins that is. These were fun and I think the extra speed is good training for form. I concentrated on stretching out my pull, smoothing out my streamline.
- 100 breast
- Got cramps in both quads. Had to stop halfway back.
- 4 x 100 dolphin kick drills
Today is for you, Bob. Though not undeniably heterosexual this is clearly an improvement.
McClure bags Third Ascent of Rhapsody (E11 7a)
climbing.com – June 20, 2008
“McClure tied in to lead for the third time on the afternoon of his fourth day on the route. “I thought I could detect a degree of nervousness about his climbing … this seemed to pass once he was properly committed on the runout, and he was totally focused,” says Keith Sharples, who was photographing McClure on his send. “When he got to the top, he looked over at me and said something like, ‘Man, that was a close one – nearly didn’t make that.’”” – Audra Ord
Day 2 of my new swimming routine. Or, I should say, my revived swimming routine. The UCSB pool was kinda crowded today. Odd because Tuesday morning it was almost empty. Maybe everyone’s doing the Monday/Wednesday/Friday thing. Anyways, I felt a little better today. Probably I’ll see improvements daily for the first couple of months. I should. I frickin‘ suck right now. For instance, here’s what I did:
- 10 x 50 free @ 2:00
- 1 x 50 free kick w/ kickboard
- 1 x 50 breast kick w/ kickboard
- 1 x 50 breaststroke
That’s a total 650 yards. Sad. And yes, that’s 50s on the two minute. I remember doing 50 50s on the :50 in high school. If I could see me now. I’d kick my own ass. Whatever, I almost died this year. And I’m going to keep using that excuse for the rest of the year. Maybe longer. That’s what you get to do when you almost die. Sort of like a reward to compensate for all the misery you endured. What? You didn’t almost almost die this year? You better get out there and crank, dude. No excuses.
First iron at GVAC. Went fast, felt good, was sweating hard (unusual). Focused on really hitting my chest, shoulders and triceps. Looked for the pain, found it, sorta went through it. I always think I could have done better but today hurt good.
- dumbbell bench press
- 5 x 12 @ 65 lbs on the 2:00, feet up
- dumbbell flys
- 5 x 12 @ 25 on the 2:00, feet up
- dumbbell seated shoulder press
- 2 x 12 @ 30 on the 2:00
- 3 x 12 @ 35 on the 2:00
- cable press-downs
- 2 x 12 @ 40 on the 2:00
- 1 x 12 @ 55 on the 2:00
- 2 x 10 @ 55 on the 2:00
Campus board, I think I love you. I wasn’t even “campusing” today. That would mean I was doing moves, at least bumping between rungs. Nope, I was just hanging from the rungs. That’s how much I love campus boards. And like most things campusing is most fun in the morning. If you ask me, “dude, what is it you like so much about campusing?” I’d have to make something up. It’s intangible. I can’t express with words what it is I love so much about campusing. Sure, it’s a power oriented thing so that would predispose me to loving it but it’s really simple and, to an observer, maybe not that interesting. Perhaps here in lies the key. Let’s review what Elijah likes: the bench press, swimming, Predator. There is a trend. Simple things. Simple at first observation. Simple until one contemplates what separates a good bencher or campuser from another. Because the movement is, on the surface, so seemingly basic it is not obvious all the subtle techniques employed to produce a maximum application of power. Only after scrutinous study does the practitioner appreciate how much concentration must go in to each attempt to elicit a gain. And just before you go mad with the thought, once your chosen event, be it benching or campusing or whatever, has all but drained you with the thought of it, do you realize your next gain can only come with a clear mind. You must clear your mind of all the analysis, rely on the training that brought you to this point and just go. And then your in love.
I was doing hangs this morning at the Shed cuz my stupid elbow is still tweaked. Feels better though. A couple more weeks of this, midweek hangs without moves, saving myself for Saturday laps at the Tor, and my shoulder should be happy.
I swam this morning. Loved it. Something about being in the water is rad. At the risk of sounding unmanly I feel I should have been born an otter or something. Something that swims around a lot like maybe a seal. Anyways, getting in and cranking out some laps felt really natural, like it hasn’t been 10 years since I’ve done that. On the fitness end, however, things did not feel so smooth. One lap is about my limit. I did a 4 x 50 that killed me. Impressive, I know. This was at the UCSB pool. There’s tons of space, like 12 long course lanes and 12 short course, with not a lot of people. The folks who show up at 6:30 AM are not sucky swimmers though. Unlike myself. There is no doubt I am leagues suckier than them which only adds to my frustration. In summary, swimming is great, I love it, I plan to do much more of it, probably incorporate it in to my training regimen, but I suck at it right now.
Thanks to Phil’s shoulder surgery last Friday I’m left scrounging for belays at the Tor. Which would have ruined my week had Micah not manned up for the occasion. So, it was me and the vegeta-bro keeping the funk alive at Santa Maria on Saturday. Things were good. The weather was a touch warm for my liking, 90-ish degrees, but not as oppressive as some days. We got on a bunch of routes, six different ones, eight total. My elbow’s not too happy about that which has me wondering if maybe I should skip training this week. Probably I won’t. Sounds like Micah enjoyed it too. Some of these routes he hadn’t been on before and was pleasantly surprised.
As I mentioned, Phil is on the injured list for a while. He had arthroscopic surgery to repair a few problems, most of which were operable without a more invasive procedure. And Phil’s prognosis is good despite his surgeon’s insistence that this is one truly gnarly looking joint. Four to six weeks of recovery for many years’ worth of enjoyment. I’ll keep the ticks warm for you, broheim.
Saturday’s shopping list:
- Power of Eating (5.11d) – redpoint
- When the Sea Doesn’t Want You (5.12a) – redpoint
- No Skill (5.12c) – 1 fall
- I took at the last clip, the jugs on Chips. Totally spent.
- Hell of the Upside Down Sinners (5.12b) – 1 fell
- Got to the ledge, tried to recover. Wasn’t happening.
- Anchor Punch (5.12a) – redpoint
- This is the first time I redpointed this route and on my fifth lap of the day this represents better than usual fitness for me, I think.
- Auto Magic (5.12a) – 1 fell
- Pathetic. I clipped the last draw and took. Totally spent.
- Power of Eating – redpoint
- Power of Eating – 1 fall
- Grabbed the chains. Pathetic.