We got some good photos at the Tor last Saturday, with some rad expressions. Andy’s looking like the Lord of the Forest. Andy on Hell of the Upside Down Sinners (5.12b): Me on the long move at the top of Atreyu (5.13b). I didn’t make it this time: Micah topping out the Tor via… Continue reading faces of death
Category: climbing
back on familiar ground
Last week I finished Hard Boiled, so this week we returned to Owl Tor. I missed her. She’s even better than I remembered. I spent 3 weeks back at Mr. Lee’s, the last 2 never going to the Tor. But things are back to normal now. I went with Andy and Micah. Phil was dealing… Continue reading back on familiar ground
Gibraltar old school
Elhanan got to an ultra precarious position to take these rad shots of Andy and me on Kevin Brown’s Self Reflection: Sunday at Gibraltar crankenstein.com
Hard Boiled, done
I redpointed Hard Boiled (5.13b) yesterday. Rad. Rad that I never have to get on her again. Actually, I had a good time this season. Probably that’s because I was prepared. Last season I spent 18 days trying to redpoint. This season I sent after eight attempts over 3 days. Yesterday’s redpoint happened first go… Continue reading Hard Boiled, done
Halloween in Joshua Tree
How appropriate. Halloween and death slabs are a match made in Hell. Yeah, there’s plenty of trick-or-treating in Joshua Tree, stacks of routes to trick you in to running them out until you’re treated to a near death experience. It’s growing on me. I got on this 12d, La Cholla, and had seriously a bunch… Continue reading Halloween in Joshua Tree
rad video of Jordan Buys sending French Duke E9 7a (Font 7c+)
Jordan looks like he peed his pants near the end, which is understandable because I almost peed my pants watching it.to the video: Jordan Buys on French Duke crankenstein.com
Hard Boiled might not be so bad
There. I said it. Hard Boiled is not the worst route in the world. But don’t get me wrong; it’s no ‘walk in the park’ to redpoint. More than anything, this new perspective of mine is probably a symptom of my revised redpoint mentality in general. Redpointing is more fun for me this season. I’ve… Continue reading Hard Boiled might not be so bad
hello, old friend
Back on Hard Boiled. That’s right, after 10 months, 1 attempt on my life, 3 pairs of climbing shoes and several dozen training days I am back projecting the most miserable piece of rock I have ever known. Once again, I am bidding for chains on Phil’s Santa Maria abomination, for whose creator I’m sure… Continue reading hello, old friend
Joshua Tree was crisp and good
I like Joshua Tree. Who knew? Gritty, crumbling granite slabs in the high desert of inland California… sounds like hell, right? In some ways it is. There’s just something about the bold leads, perpetually good weather, infinite rock and gnarled old-school locals that make the park characteristically classic. My formative climbing years were spent in… Continue reading Joshua Tree was crisp and good