wish every day could be Saturday?

I don’t. That would mean I throw myself on Tor routes 7 days a week. One day is enough. Especially when it’s a volume day. Last Saturday was such a day. 5 redpoints. 8 laps.
da routes

  • Power of Eating (5.11d) – redpoint
  • Auto Magic (5.12a) – redpoint
  • The Natural (5.12c) – redpoint
  • No Skill (5.12c) – redpoint
  • Better Than Chips (5.12d) – redpoint
  • Hell of the Upside Down Sinners (5.12b) – 1 fall
    • I grabbed the chains. Yep.
  • Anchor Punch (5.12a) – 1 fall
    • At this point I’m just pissed. So, I didn’t really care. Waited about 10 minutes after Hell before starting up this gem.
  • When the Sea Doesn’t Want You (5.12a) – 2 falls
    • 2 falls. Not caring at all at this point. Waited 10 minutes, tops, between Anchor Punch and this. Obviously, I still had tons of energy. Unstoppable, really.


  1. Actually, I’m a little jealous of you this week. Yeah, I felt something sort of “tear” I think in my left shoulder while I was hanging on a jug at pine mountain on Friday. Kind of a release of the shoulder muscle followed by sort of a sharp warm feeling. Haven’t really pushed on it much since, but it feels a little swollen…. How the F#@K did this happen? BTW – Nice work. The Natural, No Skill and Better than Chips in a day is a good day.

  2. The “sharp warm feeling” sounds bad. I’m trying to remember when I’ve felt that cuz I know it’s familiar. Maybe that’s good – if I can’t remember, it must not have been that bad. Athletes at either extreme of flexibility, whether super tight or super flexible, are supposed to be more susceptible to injury. Hyper-mobility in the shoulders is not necessarily a great thing. The muscles of your rotator cuff need to hold the shoulder down and back when climbing. With the range I know you have in your shoulders you need to concentrate on healthy form. Your background in yoga combined with lazy form at the end of a long bouldering session could have set you up for this. Your rate of injury is troubling. Could be this is a symptom of a systemic problem – think harder.

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