crankenstein climbing – Page 12

return to paradise

Friday was my first day back to Santa Maria since my hospital vacation. Absent was any kind of prediction for my performance. There was just no way to anticipate how I would feel on moderate sport routes. I’m still looking and feeling atrophied and my lungs are not back to normal. On the other hand,… Continue reading return to paradise

thanks, everyone

I need to thank everyone who participated in my care at Santa Barbara’s Cottage Hospital, visited me, called or had me in their thoughts while I was not doing so well. This is a whole bunch of people. Without the dedication of the doctors in charge of my treatment, the personal interest every nurse and… Continue reading thanks, everyone

getting in shape for climbing: what not to do

Don’t get pneumonia. I did. And it sucked. It sucked so bad I had to go to the hospital. For 17 days. Meanwhile, I lost 25 lbs. That’s 25 lbs on top of the 25 I lost before I went to the hospital. That makes me 156 lbs with 6% body fat. I don’t look… Continue reading getting in shape for climbing: what not to do

takin’ this party inside

It’s been raining like mad the past couple weeks, so forget about climbing around Santa Barbara. Unless you like climbing gyms. I do. Phil and I went to Vertical Heaven last Saturday. There’s plenty inherently wrong with gyms. The worst thing is the crowds – and by ‘crowds’ I mean the legions of rippers –… Continue reading takin’ this party inside

truly exxxtreme

Instead of climbing at Mr. Lee’s this weekend, where I should have been, I went dumbassing with Micah and Elhanan at Seven Falls. It rained in town. A lot. So, obviously, we hiked/climbed through Seven Falls in wetsuits. Seriously.

so close, and yet so far away

I got up to Santa Maria last Wednesday and Saturday, days 14 and 15 of my season epic on Hard Boiled. Wednesday was a disaster: 3 falls throwing for the crux crimp, not even a high point. And then there was Saturday. First, Chris redpoints it on his first go of the day. What an… Continue reading so close, and yet so far away

my back is stupid

Last Saturday didn’t count. I went to Mr. Lee’s but a cramp in my back was so painful I couldn’t climb. I tried to warm up on Shores of Hell but it just got worse. Then it got bad. It got bad and stupid. Super aggravating. Oh well, at least I got to lay on… Continue reading my back is stupid

day 13

So, I finally hit the crux pinch on Hard Boiled. And for about 1/1000 of a second, it felt like redpoint time. Never in my life have I hit a hold that bad. My fucking fingers were, like, fucking folded under themselves or something. I can’t really remember, except to say that it was bad.… Continue reading day 13

day 11 & 12

I didn’t write last week about the prior weekend’s events on Hard Boiled. Because I fell. Again. 3 times. And each time I fell at the same spot – throwing to that right hand crimp at the crux. However, last weekend I hit the crimp twice. And then fell. Twice. Whatever, it’s progress. I still… Continue reading day 11 & 12