This happened a week and a half ago. I’ve been lazy. da routes: Power of Eating (5.11d) – redpoint Auto Magic (5.12a) – redpoint Better Than Life (5.13c) – 3 takes Better Than Life (5.13c) – 2 takes Chips to Pro Skill variation (5.13a?) – 1 take at the last bolt White Cougar (5.12b) –… Continue reading re-projecting BTL
Category: routes
making wine does not make for good climbing
These photos are from a week ago. I was just too lazy to write about it last week. Elhanan and I “helped” Justin drink some of the grape juice he’s making in to wine before heading over to Owl Tor. Hopefully when this stuff is finished it will taste better than it does now. 6… Continue reading making wine does not make for good climbing
that which does not kill me makes me madder
Owl Tor made me mean. She had to have seen this coming. Probably she knew all along her special kind of relentless derision would make a person mean if it didn’t break them. Which explains why on Saturday, on my second consecutive weekend of uncharacteristically strong performances, I still feel beaten. What else could I… Continue reading that which does not kill me makes me madder
so close, and yet so far away
I got up to Santa Maria last Wednesday and Saturday, days 14 and 15 of my season epic on Hard Boiled. Wednesday was a disaster: 3 falls throwing for the crux crimp, not even a high point. And then there was Saturday. First, Chris redpoints it on his first go of the day. What an… Continue reading so close, and yet so far away
my back is stupid
Last Saturday didn’t count. I went to Mr. Lee’s but a cramp in my back was so painful I couldn’t climb. I tried to warm up on Shores of Hell but it just got worse. Then it got bad. It got bad and stupid. Super aggravating. Oh well, at least I got to lay on… Continue reading my back is stupid
day 13
So, I finally hit the crux pinch on Hard Boiled. And for about 1/1000 of a second, it felt like redpoint time. Never in my life have I hit a hold that bad. My fucking fingers were, like, fucking folded under themselves or something. I can’t really remember, except to say that it was bad.… Continue reading day 13
day 11 & 12
I didn’t write last week about the prior weekend’s events on Hard Boiled. Because I fell. Again. 3 times. And each time I fell at the same spot – throwing to that right hand crimp at the crux. However, last weekend I hit the crimp twice. And then fell. Twice. Whatever, it’s progress. I still… Continue reading day 11 & 12
Owl Tor is rad
Rain shut us down at Mr. Lee’s, so we cranked it out at Owl Tor instead. Which reminds me, the Tor is rad. I got on Galla Galla Happy (13d), Better Than Life (13c), The Old Pro Skill (12d), and Chips Ahoy (12d). To my future self: before you get impressed with this list of… Continue reading Owl Tor is rad
day 10
Well, I fell three more times at the Hard Boiled crux. But elijah, aren’t you tired of falling at the same spot every week? Yes. There’s a small lip in the back of the left-hand pocket, way in there. Setting that two-finger pocket better could be key. I tried after falling on my third burn… Continue reading day 10