Saturday at Mr Lee’s sucked. Hard Boiled felt totally impossible. I ended up getting on two other ‘gems’ instead, White Lotus and Pork Chop Express. Both routes sucked. This week’s goal: LOSE WEIGHT. I don’t care if I have to smoke a pack of cigarettes every 10 minutes – this belly has got to go.… Continue reading I don’t deserve to climb
Category: climbing
couches make Austrians stronger
Phil, Brian, Hawk and I met Chris at Mr. Lee’s Saturday. This was my fifth day projecting Hard Boiled and, as expected, I have begun to loathe its very essence. Although, I did make progress. My right hand exceeded my previous high-point by about 18 inches, which by my calculations puts me on track to… Continue reading couches make Austrians stronger
finger problem
My ring finger on my left hand has been hurting lately. It doesn’t hurt to climb or stretch it. Only touching it between my knuckle and first joint is painful. So, I haven’t taken it too seriously and it’s been getting worse for a couple weeks. It might be time to cut back, take it… Continue reading finger problem
day fo’
Day frickin’ four. Four days on Hard Boiled. My relationship with this route has blossomed I feel. And I believe we are on the verge of a meaningful transition. Next weekend, on my fifth day courting its redpoint, I foresee Hard Boiled and I progressing into what I consider TOTAL HELL. I’m talking big falls,… Continue reading day fo’
same route, different day
Saturday, day three of Tor season, felt like the first day of true Santa Maria rock climbing. Phil, Paul, and myself are all well into our respective projects. Phil is working on Buddhist Palm, and Paul and I are working Hard Boiled. Temperatures have been good. I need to lose weight. A lot of weight.… Continue reading same route, different day
Santa Maria: day 2
If you weigh 195 lbs and your name isn’t John Dunne, don’t get trashed the night before going climbing in Santa Maria. Hard Boiled, the most miserable 40 ft of rock ever touched by a Hilti, makes me want to find a new sport. And oddly, this overhanging pile of misery feels no better when… Continue reading Santa Maria: day 2
back to Hell
Saturday was our first day back to Santa Maria. Phil, Paul and I went to Mr. Lee’s and we all got on Hard Boiled. I passionately hate this route. My right hand is completely maimed from it. While enjoying the crux on my second go up this masterpiece I punctured a pad on my middle… Continue reading back to Hell
climbing with nuggets
So, I went climbing yesterday with Paul and he brought Laura Griffiths and Susánica Tam. This was my first time meeting either of them – both very cool nuggets. Had I known this would turn in to a six hour photo shoot at the Playground I probably would not have had as much to drink… Continue reading climbing with nuggets
movement
I’ve been climbing a long time and I always struggle with movement. Possibly because, as I evolve in the sport, the way I move inadvertantly changes. Nevertheless, my mind has to catch up. To visualize upcoming moves you must know what to expect from your body. I climb slow. Guys who climb slow think I… Continue reading movement