day 13

So, I finally hit the crux pinch on Hard Boiled. And for about 1/1000 of a second, it felt like redpoint time. Never in my life have I hit a hold that bad. My fucking fingers were, like, fucking folded under themselves or something. I can’t really remember, except to say that it was bad.… Continue reading day 13

day 11 & 12

I didn’t write last week about the prior weekend’s events on Hard Boiled. Because I fell. Again. 3 times. And each time I fell at the same spot – throwing to that right hand crimp at the crux. However, last weekend I hit the crimp twice. And then fell. Twice. Whatever, it’s progress. I still… Continue reading day 11 & 12

Owl Tor is rad

Rain shut us down at Mr. Lee’s, so we cranked it out at Owl Tor instead. Which reminds me, the Tor is rad. I got on Galla Galla Happy (13d), Better Than Life (13c), The Old Pro Skill (12d), and Chips Ahoy (12d). To my future self: before you get impressed with this list of… Continue reading Owl Tor is rad

day 10

Well, I fell three more times at the Hard Boiled crux. But elijah, aren’t you tired of falling at the same spot every week? Yes. There’s a small lip in the back of the left-hand pocket, way in there. Setting that two-finger pocket better could be key. I tried after falling on my third burn… Continue reading day 10

day 9

Day 9 on Hard Boiled. Three redpoint burns. Three falls at the crux. Whatever. Here she is, the object of my frustration: me on Hard Boiled And here’s Phil on Buddhist Palm: Phil on Buddhist Palm Thanks to Paul Dusatko for shooting these videos and putting them to rad music.

day 8

I’m not even going to try to think of clever titles for blog posts from now on. It’s just ‘day 8’ – the eighth day this season I have spent working Hard Boiled. Communists must love climbing routes. It’s cold, everything is blue/gray, everyone has serious expressions and rad facial hair, and at the end… Continue reading day 8

day 7

My seventh day of the season projecting Hard Boiled. I don’t know what to say about it. I’m where I thought I would be at this point. The only difference between this and my experience working Better Than Life is my attitude. This time I expected to suffer. So, whatever. Here it is. It sucks,… Continue reading day 7

day 7, I mean 1

What would have been my seventh consecutive Saturday of the season projecting Hard Boiled at Mr. Lee’s turned into my first day at Owl Tor. No complaints here – I frickin’ love the Tor (and by ‘love’ I mean ‘love/hate’). Truth be told, I was a little disappointed because I had spent the previous week… Continue reading day 7, I mean 1