day 11 & 12

I didn’t write last week about the prior weekend’s events on Hard Boiled. Because I fell. Again. 3 times. And each time I fell at the same spot – throwing to that right hand crimp at the crux. However, last weekend I hit the crimp twice. And then fell. Twice. Whatever, it’s progress. I still suck, but it’s progress. Clearly, the road out of suckiness is long and hard.

Owl Tor is rad

Rain shut us down at Mr. Lee’s, so we cranked it out at Owl Tor instead. Which reminds me, the Tor is rad. I got on Galla Galla Happy (13d), Better Than Life (13c), The Old Pro Skill (12d), and Chips Ahoy (12d). To my future self: before you get impressed with this list of routes you got on last weekend, let me remind you how bad you got killed on all of them. No redpoints. Although I did feel pretty strong and had a bunch of fun. I was particularly psyched that I got through the bottom of Galla Galla Happy and Better Than Life to the undercling.

day 10

Well, I fell three more times at the Hard Boiled crux.
But elijah, aren’t you tired of falling at the same spot every week?
Yes.

There’s a small lip in the back of the left-hand pocket, way in there. Setting that two-finger pocket better could be key. I tried after falling on my third burn Saturday to milk that left hand, which made the next throw out right easier.