Phil claims the first tick of the season. Antonio and/or Arthur had claimed first tick, I think, a couple months back but those statements could not be verified. I understand their frustration. Such a fortuitous symbol may foreshadow a fruitful season for one Phil. Phil on Tom’s Burly Shuffle 12c: Phil-vs-Burly-Shuffle_20140517_small Phil-vs-Burly-Shuffle_20140517_big Though not prone to political activism… Continue reading first tick
Category: routes
infinitesimal progress
Strictly Ballroom got a little closer to becoming a finished project after Saturday’s session at Owl Tor. I hit the mono move off the dog (I love saying that), for the third time ever, and slapped the jug at the break. Though not a statement of undeniable success I did pull through the mono more… Continue reading infinitesimal progress
No and Then
Inspired by one of my generation’s iconic celluloid gems this post’s title is appropriate as I tried to parlay my send of Gala Gala Happy into Strictly Ballroom. But there has bees no and then. Strictly Ballroom has shut me the fugg down. My schedule for a redpoint on Strictly is now in the lifetime-ish range. Sadly, there’s just one problematic move in… Continue reading No and Then
Gala Gala Happy
I sent Gala Gala Happy last weekend at our inaugural Owltoberfest.
because more difficult is more awesome
Keeping with this crankenstein.com theme I’m trying out a new method of video delivery – an inappropriately complex and compulsively robust technique that’s fully rad. Behold: jwplayer(‘mediaplayer’).setup({ file: “rtmp://s1jaz2gmcjf1sh.cloudfront.net/cfx/st/mp4:00004-3”, width: “720”, height: “480” }); me on Better Than Life 8a+, Owl Tor, Santa Maria, California
rOcktober
I suck at poker because I never play. So I suppose I can’t say for sure that I suck at poker. But anything one can be good at without practicing is stupid. Although, I can think of stuff that’s stupid even if one practices it religiously. Anyways. It is my understanding a poker player can… Continue reading rOcktober
things (and stuff)
I didn’t have super great video of Micah campusing when I posted the last time, which was a shame because he was campusing way hard. Now that he’s laid up in the hospital again he’s found time to forward me this: That’s 1-5-8 then 1-6-bump-7. There’s been some issue lately regarding proper dimensions on campus… Continue reading things (and stuff)
the week in training
My spring climbing season is going approximately as planned. I’m campusing decently, bouldering sufficiently and have managed to put in a few good days on Strictly. Saturday was my sixth day of the season at Owl Tor and my third day on this year’s redpoint route of focus, for which the campusing and bouldering is… Continue reading the week in training
the first day of the rest of my life
Saturday was my first day of the season on Strictly Ballroom. She’s still an angry route. So much anger. Things went OK though, I think. I expected it to be hard. My biggest concern at this point is the mono move at the first bolt. The start is about V9 to the second bolt, I… Continue reading the first day of the rest of my life