Saturday saw heavy action on Chips. I love it. Maybe I love it because I sent her then got to watch Andy and Paul fight for her chains. That’s not true. Chips is my mistress. I love her regardless. She’s beautiful because she rewards the prepared and castrates the unworthy. And I can’t get enough… Continue reading more drama than Shakespeare
Category: climbing
eight is great
Something about Saturday made redpoints unrealistic. The weather was unusually cold, maybe 60 degrees, which ordinarily would make for a good day. A good day anywhere but at the Tor. You see, we are not the only ones with excuses. The Tor itself will throw down an excuse card once in a while. So, despite… Continue reading eight is great
same route, different me
I’m feeling better all the time. However, the Tor doesn’t care. Here’s a classic: I’m feeling pretty good all week, good shedding on Wednesday, campused for the first time in a long time, warmed up strong on Power, and thought ‘I’m feeling so rad, I’ll crank Chips then, since I’ll probably feel so remarkably mega-strong,… Continue reading same route, different me
Ojai X-treme
Marcela took me climbing Sunday in Ojai. My first trad climb in probably forever, The Tree Route (5.6) on the Black Wall, offered a revealing glimpse in to the realm of traditional climbing. Marcela would like me to give this trad thing a chance. I’m trying. And that’s all I’m going to say. This creek… Continue reading Ojai X-treme
all Tor, all day
Last weekend, my first trip back to Santa Maria since the hospital, we went to Mr. Lee’s before Owl Tor. This time, we went straight to the Tor. Excellent idea. The Tor is way more rad in my opinion and its routes are not forgiving to tired climbers. The Power of Eating (5.11d), once my… Continue reading all Tor, all day
return to paradise
Friday was my first day back to Santa Maria since my hospital vacation. Absent was any kind of prediction for my performance. There was just no way to anticipate how I would feel on moderate sport routes. I’m still looking and feeling atrophied and my lungs are not back to normal. On the other hand,… Continue reading return to paradise
takin’ this party inside
It’s been raining like mad the past couple weeks, so forget about climbing around Santa Barbara. Unless you like climbing gyms. I do. Phil and I went to Vertical Heaven last Saturday. There’s plenty inherently wrong with gyms. The worst thing is the crowds – and by ‘crowds’ I mean the legions of rippers –… Continue reading takin’ this party inside
so close, and yet so far away
I got up to Santa Maria last Wednesday and Saturday, days 14 and 15 of my season epic on Hard Boiled. Wednesday was a disaster: 3 falls throwing for the crux crimp, not even a high point. And then there was Saturday. First, Chris redpoints it on his first go of the day. What an… Continue reading so close, and yet so far away
my back is stupid
Last Saturday didn’t count. I went to Mr. Lee’s but a cramp in my back was so painful I couldn’t climb. I tried to warm up on Shores of Hell but it just got worse. Then it got bad. It got bad and stupid. Super aggravating. Oh well, at least I got to lay on… Continue reading my back is stupid