Month: February 2011

This porridge pumped the fugg out of me: hangs_20110224_1.xlsx. Massive failure occurred around the halfway point. This porridge was just right: hangs_20110224_2.xlsx crankenstein.com

It was about last Thursday that I said I would not do another 40-minute hangboard routine. That sentiment lasted until yesterday when I conceived of a 40-minute routine that would be harder. So, It sucked. But I’m psyched I did it. I did actually do it too. And I’m going to hold up this routine… Continue reading welcome to Hurtsville, population: me

I went for the 40-minute set yesterday. It was long. It was more than I care to do again. Music helped. My skin started to fall apart causing me to miss an early set taping a tear on my right ring finger. That’s ok – I enjoyed the remaining 92 sets. Total time hanging was… Continue reading in a word: long

Yesterday’s hangboard session was good stuff. Finally my plan is coming together. Small holds felt small. Big holds felt pumpy. I’m getting a practical sense for how to combine varying durations and intensities to simulate what feels like a full-length sport route. So I’m getting pumped. And my performance, in these sets anyway, is improving,… Continue reading this would be easier with Tony

It’s Monday but this hangboard set is from Thursday. It was a bit scary. Being my third consecutive day of hangboard sets, plus climbing, my fingers were feeling breakable. Note to self: warm up better (dumbass). And this set was generally difficult to get through. I was late on a few starts. On a fresh… Continue reading From Thursday With Love

If you want to make getting phone calls not suck get Google Voice and enable the Voicemail Transcripts feature. It’s priceless. It’s like discovering an exotic island, teaching the natives to speak English real quick, then having them text you complex messages. I had another go at an 18-minute hangboard routine yesterday. It was rad.… Continue reading Yeah fun last night on your property my animal though we’re trying to reach HI.

Yesterday’s hangboard session went down before I bounced over to the Shed for some proper fitness. I had intended to use the few minutes planned for hangs as a warm up. Instead I printed an 18-minute routine that shut me down at ~14:20. Clearly I am the master of my own impulses. hangs_20110208.xlsx This Excel… Continue reading stupid people don’t deserve to be strong

Since the Superbowl is lame I got some hangboarding in yesterday. This was my second go at a 9-minute set and it felt way less pumpy than the first. I did tweak the intervals a bit, increasing both loads and rests a touch, but I do not believe that is what made this seem less… Continue reading Superboard Sunday

I get pumped when I climb routes. So. I’m going to try this enduro-hangboarding thing on my beastmaker for a while. Take 1: hangboard schedules This was harder than I expected. Which I expected. I’m thinking I’ll increase load and rest intervals and stay in the 9 minute range for a spell. I was switching… Continue reading hangboarding for that endurancey stuff