because more difficult is more awesome

Keeping with this crankenstein.com theme I’m trying out a new method of video delivery – an inappropriately complex and compulsively robust technique that’s fully rad. Behold:

 

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file: “rtmp://s1jaz2gmcjf1sh.cloudfront.net/cfx/st/mp4:00004-3”,
width: “720”,
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me on Better Than Life 8a+, Owl Tor, Santa Maria, California

the week in training

My spring climbing season is going approximately as planned. I’m campusing decently, bouldering sufficiently and have managed to put in a few good days on Strictly. Saturday was my sixth day of the season at Owl Tor and my third day on this year’s redpoint route of focus, for which the campusing and bouldering is supposed to provide adequate power. I burned three attempts on the lower section of Strictly Ballroom and two from the ledge to the top, strategically splitting the route into two obvious sections. I’m still concerned with the difficulty of the mono to the crimp at the first bolt, although this day I made progress, hitting the crimp maybe three times. It’s going to take more than a few more hard days of work before I’m approaching legitimate redpoint burns. On a positive note, my timing has coincided perfectly with Lizard mating season. After making moves on a local lady, this guy dominated my shoe.

From Wednesday’s session at the Shed, 1-4-7 on the mediums:

The campus board at the Shed is built to standard specifications: rungs are spaced 22cm, 15-degrees overhanging. The left rungs are the only set to come from a manufacturer – Metolius mediums. The right two sets are my own creation and are considerably smaller.

And for some Thursday climbing action, Micah and I went to Upper Gibraltar to get on a couple of the most mediocre routes in town. This photo is of Micah leading A Route Runs Through It (5.10c) with his pack on to facilitate a quick exit in fading light.

video evidence

I got some videos of Andy and Micah sending stuff at Owl Tor last weekend. Footage from these first two is a little shaky because my legs were falling asleep in my harness. And the wind was blowing me around kind of a lot. To get these angles is somewhat involved.

Micah redpointing When the Sea Doesn’t Want You (5.12a):

http://vimeo.com/moogaloop.swf?clip_id=2302282&server=vimeo.com&show_title=1&show_byline=1&show_portrait=0&color=&fullscreen=1
Micah on The Sea from Elijah Ball on Vimeo.

Andy redpointing Anchor Punch (5.12a):

http://vimeo.com/moogaloop.swf?clip_id=2304425&server=vimeo.com&show_title=1&show_byline=1&show_portrait=0&color=&fullscreen=1
Andy on Anchor Punch from Elijah Ball on Vimeo.

Andy redpointing Auto Magic (5.12a):

http://vimeo.com/moogaloop.swf?clip_id=2304309&server=vimeo.com&show_title=1&show_byline=1&show_portrait=0&color=00ADEF&fullscreen=1
Andy on Auto Magic from Elijah Ball on Vimeo.