first wood

Campusing is rad. It’s so rad I got up at 5:30 this morning to do it before work. My right elbow is still bothering me a bit so I just did hangs, no moves. And I noticed big moves give my elbow more pain or, I should say, I noticed while hanging that the further my hands are from one another the more it hurts my elbow. My theory is, considering my pronator teres is damaged, whose responsibility is to pronate my hand, that the closer my right hand is to my right shoulder the more extreme the pronation. Observe:


Here, my hands are close together causing minimal pronation.


Increasing the distance between my hands causes my lower hand to approach the level of my shoulder, decreasing the angle at my elbow and exaggerating my hand’s pronation.


And here’s a photo of me two-finger campusing. No reason.

This maybe doesn’t say anything important. I just thought it interesting and not necessarily obvious. I’ve noticed as I get older avoiding injury is more important than developing strength. It’s only when I’m performing near my limit that training is effective, where I can’t get with an injury holding me back. Unfortunately, this also is where I’m most likely to sustain damage. Healthy training takes me one step forward while an injury takes me two steps back.

pronator teres


What I thought might be a serious chronic elbow injury turns out to be not so bad according to my favorite sports therapist, Kevin Brown of Elite Performance and Rehabilitation here in Goleta, CA. I had diagnosed myself (a fool for a patient) with medial epicondylitis several years ago and intermittently since, due most likely to repetitive trauma from climbing, and am glad to have Kevin diagnose me with the least serious of several causes for this pain, an overly developed pronator teres muscle. Kevin is sometimes Chicken Little about injuries, as he’s very familiar with power-oriented climbers and their habits, but this time downplayed the severity of my situation. I will continue to climb and train at a somewhat diminished intensity while incorporating his prescribed stretches. And getting some deep tissue massage and acupuncture. News I’m very glad to hear.