Category: routes

Day 9 on Hard Boiled. Three redpoint burns. Three falls at the crux. Whatever. Here she is, the object of my frustration: me on Hard Boiled And here’s Phil on Buddhist Palm: Phil on Buddhist Palm Thanks to Paul Dusatko for shooting these videos and putting them to rad music.

I’m not even going to try to think of clever titles for blog posts from now on. It’s just ‘day 8’ – the eighth day this season I have spent working Hard Boiled. Communists must love climbing routes. It’s cold, everything is blue/gray, everyone has serious expressions and rad facial hair, and at the end… Continue reading day 8

My seventh day of the season projecting Hard Boiled. I don’t know what to say about it. I’m where I thought I would be at this point. The only difference between this and my experience working Better Than Life is my attitude. This time I expected to suffer. So, whatever. Here it is. It sucks,… Continue reading day 7

I’ve never done yoga before. Before last Friday, that is. The day before climbing at the Tor. Bad idea. Yoga kicked my ass. I don’t know what I was thinking. It must have been an arrogant moment when I thought I would jump in to this yoga class, dominate all their yoga stuff, then wake… Continue reading climbing is the new yoga

What would have been my seventh consecutive Saturday of the season projecting Hard Boiled at Mr. Lee’s turned into my first day at Owl Tor. No complaints here – I frickin’ love the Tor (and by ‘love’ I mean ‘love/hate’). Truth be told, I was a little disappointed because I had spent the previous week… Continue reading day 7, I mean 1

Saturday at Mr Lee’s sucked. Hard Boiled felt totally impossible. I ended up getting on two other ‘gems’ instead, White Lotus and Pork Chop Express. Both routes sucked. This week’s goal: LOSE WEIGHT. I don’t care if I have to smoke a pack of cigarettes every 10 minutes – this belly has got to go.… Continue reading I don’t deserve to climb

Phil, Brian, Hawk and I met Chris at Mr. Lee’s Saturday. This was my fifth day projecting Hard Boiled and, as expected, I have begun to loathe its very essence. Although, I did make progress. My right hand exceeded my previous high-point by about 18 inches, which by my calculations puts me on track to… Continue reading couches make Austrians stronger

My ring finger on my left hand has been hurting lately. It doesn’t hurt to climb or stretch it. Only touching it between my knuckle and first joint is painful. So, I haven’t taken it too seriously and it’s been getting worse for a couple weeks. It might be time to cut back, take it… Continue reading finger problem

Day frickin’ four. Four days on Hard Boiled. My relationship with this route has blossomed I feel. And I believe we are on the verge of a meaningful transition. Next weekend, on my fifth day courting its redpoint, I foresee Hard Boiled and I progressing into what I consider TOTAL HELL. I’m talking big falls,… Continue reading day fo’