the week in training

My spring climbing season is going approximately as planned. I’m campusing decently, bouldering sufficiently and have managed to put in a few good days on Strictly. Saturday was my sixth day of the season at Owl Tor and my third day on this year’s redpoint route of focus, for which the campusing and bouldering is… Continue reading the week in training

train bad 1 day and feel bad for 1 week

Few things get me more down than a bad training session. And I’m actually pretty fair about it. I won’t chastise myself for not achieving some arbitrary, daily training goal. Bad days happen – that’s to be expected. I understand I can’t crank out personal bests every day. What really sends me over the edge… Continue reading train bad 1 day and feel bad for 1 week

send me on my way

I’m deep in a winter training routine. The weather has me confined to indoor locales like the Shed and occasionally the climbing gym in Ventura. I love it. Holing up in the basement to grow lobster arms while the crags soak is definitely my thing. I’ve taken this opportunity to campus a bunch and I’m… Continue reading send me on my way

campusing is rad

I’m going to start keeping track of my campusing stuff. The woodie at the Shed just isn’t doing it for me anymore – I only want to campus. Which should be rad. If I only campus and get on routes all winter, spring will find me ferociously strong or horribly injured. Speaking of which, I… Continue reading campusing is rad

first wood

Campused this morning with Andy. He did 5-1-5 on the bigs. I didn’t do much except kinda high-volume 2-finger hangs. Energy was pretty low. Because of an approaching appointment with the pulmonologist and this generally feeling like a flat session I went fast through my routine, not resting much, not trying epic hard stuff, instead… Continue reading first wood

first wood

Andy, Justin, Marcela and I campused early this morning at the Shed. Andy was real close to 5-1-5 on the bigs. My elbows felt a little fragile so I passed on drops, opting instead for up moves and two-finger work. 1-3-6 went down on the bigs, felt kinda hard on the flat/rounds and I did… Continue reading first wood

first wood

Justin, Andy and Brian met me at the Shed this morning for some early campusing. Things felt good. I did some four and two-finger work over all 3 sets of rungs, most notably: caught 5-1 drop on bigs, finished 4-1-4 on flat/rounds and ushered in the two-finger campusing season by finishing 1-2 two-finger on the… Continue reading first wood

first wood

Andy and Andree met me at the Shed for early morning campusing. Felt OK. I was focused mostly on a couple moves I’d not done in a while so put on hold the highish volume I’d been doing lately, although the session did last about 2 hours. Two-finger work was definately on the agenda –… Continue reading first wood

first wood

I met Justin and Andy at the shed this morning for campusing. This is the first day in 2 or 3 weeks I did some moves. After much three- and four-finger warming up on the big and round/flat rungs I spent most of my time four-fingering the round/flats with interspersed two-finger hangs. This turned out… Continue reading first wood