Since the Superbowl is lame I got some hangboarding in yesterday. This was my second go at a 9-minute set and it felt way less pumpy than the first. I did tweak the intervals a bit, increasing both loads and rests a touch, but I do not believe that is what made this seem less endurance-y-ish™. Rather, my recent focus on routes and the newness of these long sets has me improving quickly for the first little bit here, I believe. There are tons of opportunities for on-the-fly efficiency tweaking within the 9 minutes these sets cover and route guys are specialized in this skill. Some medium 2-finger and mono work even got incorporated toward the end. Which reminds me to remind me: put small holds in the sine valleys, not on the peaks (dumbass).
Right now I’m just kinda using whatever holds I want during a set but I’ll figure out recording for that. Not recording would be like climbing a route and giving no consideration for the size of the holds – which sounded super stupid in my head but now that sounds rad.